food guide

Farm stalls worth stopping for

The road-trip institution, the ones actually worth the detour, and the rule for telling a maker from a shop.

The South African farm stall

Part bakery, part deli, part pie shop, part local colour. The good ones are a reason to plan a route. The bad ones are a petrol station with a table. The difference is whether the food is made on-site and whether the locals stop.

The ones worth rerouting for

Peregrine in Elgin, on the N2, is the farm stall the Cape day-trip built itself around; their pies are the standard. Beyond that, the rule is: any stall on the N2 through Elgin, the R62 through the Klein Karoo, or the R44 through the Whale Coast that's busy with locals is worth a stop. Cederberg farm gates selling rooibos and biltong count too.

A few to know by name

  • Peregrine (Elgin, N2). The original, and the one the rest are measured against. Pies, farm bread, and the stop that justifies the Elgin detour on its own.
  • Die Platzl (Ceres). Pie country, fruit country, and the gateway to the Tankwa. Stop on the way to the Cederberg.
  • Toontos and Country Pumpkin (Barrydale, R62). Either is worth the stop. Barrydale is the R62's farm-stall town.
  • Ronnie's Sex Shop (Klein Karoo, R62). A pub more than a stall, legendary, crude, and a road-trip ritual. You stop for the sign and the story.

What to buy

Pies. The South African pie is a cuisine of its own; try venison or bobotie. Biltong and droëwors. Koeksisters. Farm bread. Seasonal fruit from the Elgin and Ceres valleys. Local honey. One meat pie per road day is not optional; it's the law.

The rule

If there are more cars than a petrol station warrants, stop. If the pies are frozen and reheated, keep driving. A farm stall is a place that makes things; a shop is a place that sells them. You want the maker.

Last updated

Planning South Africa? Steal our route.

Get our first-timer itinerary, route notes, and places worth making room for.